Stacy Pearsall: Nikkor 105mm Lens
September 6, 2012 by Manfrotto
Filed under Beyond the Basics, Gear
Lens (mm): 105
rong>ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.8
Shutter: 1/125
Exp. Comp.: -1.0
Program: Aperture Priority
The AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED lens is actually a 1:1 life-size ratio macro lens. Basically this means you can get close to your subject and still have the ability to focus. One of the other key perks to this lens is the Vibration Reduction (VR), which allows you to shoot in ambient light, handheld up to four shutter speeds slower than other similar lenses. For folks like me who are a bit wobbly at times, this is very important. Here’s a tip though… if you are shooting closer to your subject, you should turn the VR off. Why? Well Nikon says, “As the reproduction ratio increases from 1/30x, the effects of vibration reduction gradually decreases. You’re basically eating up your battery for nothing. However, if you’re two or more feet away from your subject, it’s best to turn it back on.
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.8
Shutter: 1/1000
Exp. Comp.: -1.0
Program: Aperture Priority
As you can see by the below sample image, this lens has incredible capacity to render color and contrast. Whether I’m using it with my Nikon D800 or Nikon D3s, the results are consistently dependable. If you’re shooting flowers or insects, this lens is a must-have. Even if you’re shooting portraits in the studio or outside, this lens is also a good addition to your arsenal.
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.8
Shutter: 1/250
Program: Aperture Priority
I use the 105mm lens in my studio quite often for product shots. It affords me to leeway of getting in very close to subjects, so I can show the best possible detail. Take the scroll and pegbox of the below violin for instance. Because the violin is nearly 250 years old, it was important to show every crack in the wood and missing peg and string. This gives the viewer, in this case the appraiser, the most accurate understanding of the violin’s current condition.
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.8
Shutter: 1/250
Program: Aperture Priority
The 105mm lens’ autofocus is fast at normal focus distances, but may flutter a bit at macro distances. For me, it’s not an issue. At macro distances I usually focus manually from a tripod, which renders the best macro results. Nikon’s autofocus at 1:1 is just fine, but to get the most accurate focus at that level of lens to subject distance and magnificati
on, I recommend manual focus.
The focus ring of the 105/2.8G turns about 170° from infinity to the minimum focus distance. This long throw is good for manual focusing and there is no play between the focus-ring and the focus-action. The AF-operation is very quiet and the focus-ring operates very smoothly. If you rattle the lens there is some sound to be heard, but that is normal with a stabilized lens like the 105mm.
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.8
Shutter: 1/400
Exp. Comp.: -1.0
Program: Aperture Priority
The closest focus distance maximum magnification is 0.31m at 1:1. Magnification of 1:1 is standard with Nikon's Micro-Nikkors, but other manufacturers call some of their lenses “macro” while only reaching 1:4 magnification. So this is a clear selling point for this lens. The above image demonstrates that the lens delivers good sharpness and contrast with little light fall-off over the image circle at f2.8.
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.8
Shutter: 1/1250
Program: Aperture Priority
The construction quality of the lens is nice thanks to an outer barrel made of metal. Unlike its predecessor it is a “true” IF lens so it does NOT extend during focusing. An attractive feature in this lens is Nano Crystal Coat (NCC) on the rear optical element. NCC is supposed to eliminate internal lens reflections.
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.8
Shutter: 1/320
Exp. Comp.: -0.7
Program: Aperture Priority
I think the most important accessories for suing the 105mm lens for macro photography are: a tripod, polarizing filter and shutter release cable.
As you approach the 1:3, 1:2 and 1:1 reproduction ranges, you will find that depth of field becomes increasingly smaller. It is not uncommon to use f/22 or f/32 to ensure your subject is adequately sharp. The trade off for the higher f-stops is slower shutter speeds. Having a solid platform to shoot from is a must. I suggest getting the sturdiest tripod that you can.
A polarizing filter not only removes glare from reflective surfaces, it also greatly improves color saturation of smaller objects. Even the smallest petal of a flower can shine quite noticeably and a polarizing filter can dramatically increase contrast and color saturation.
You don’t want to wreck your photographs by having your hands on the camera when you take the picture at slow shutter speeds. You can circumvent this problem by investing in a shutter release cable. Of course, you could do this by using the self-timer, but in most cases that’s just not practical. If your subject is a butterfly, then time is of the essence. By waiting for a timer, you could wait yourself right out of your shot. With the shutter release cable, you can fire the camera at the precise moment.
